ok we have 2 cats and one of them recently started peeing on my clothes!!!!its disgusting and we are pretty sure we know wich one it is but we dont want to get rid of it we know that it knows where the litter is and at our old house he used the litter it has never been an issue befor now please dont say it could be stressed cuz i know that but how do i cure it?
Cats have litter box problems for a number of reasons.
It could be a dirty litter box problem. Maybe a new house, along with a litter box that isn't cleaned to his liking could make him go on your cloths.
It could also be a health problems. Before you get rid of him, you should take him to the vet to find out if he's doing this because he's sick. He could very likely be in pain and squatting in the litter box hurts him. Or, he could have to go so frequently that making it to the litter box isn't an option.
I would suggest bringing it to the box every time you think of it. Even though you know that he knows where the box is, it's still a good idea to remind him every once in a while where to go. So, treat him like a kitten and take him there every hour or so, and when he wakes up.
Another idea would be to get a different litter box. If you have a covered box, then try an uncovered box for a while, or, if you have an uncovered box, then try a covered box.
You should also have two boxes. Cats are odd, and with two cats in the house, they will sometimes not go unless they have their own box to go in.
And, like the others have said, you should keep your cloths out of his way so that he doesn't have the option of peeing on them.
Good luck.
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I have a problem with my cat eating wet food. She won't eat it, but she will lick the juice/sauce up from it. However she has no problem eating dry food. She'll eat 1/2 cup of it within a day. But I want to know why she will not eat her wet food. I have tried just every kind of wet food out there. But nothing worked. What could I do to solve this or fix this? Or should I just forget it and leave her with just dry food?
But just a note I really want her to eat wet food because it's nutritious and has important ingredients in there that aren't contained in dry food.
And because of this my cat is pretty skinny -- only three pounds.
If it helps, my cat is approximately 7 months old (older kitten).
Thanks in advance!
Cats don't drink water like they should. This is one reason why cats are more likely to get urinary problems. Since they don't drink much water, their urine tends to be more concentrated, making them more likely to get stones and what not.
This explains why your cat will only drink the juice out of the wet food. Her body is striving to get the most moisture out of her food. For some reason she doesn't eat the actual food... that just baffles me.
You can do one of two things. You can try to decrease her hard food portions and offer her soft food on top of the hard food, so that she has to get under the soft food to get the hard food, hopefully she'll eat at least some of the soft food, and will eventually get a taste for it.
Or, you could go for a better quality hard food and just feed her that. But, it's still a pretty good idea to keep something that will give her moisture, like tuna juice, or, if you don't mind spending the money of soft food just for the juice, then continue to do that.
Or, have you tried the kind of soft foods that don't come in juices. Some of them kind of look like a paste instead of chunks in juice.
Maybe she would like those.
Lastly, I have to say this... there may be an underlying health problem. Three pounds seems quite skinny for a seven month old kitten. Only by a couple of pounds, but thats a lot when your so tiny.
You might want to contact your vet and ask them.
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is spaying and neutering a pet wrong?
I work at an animal clinic that strives to get EVERY animal that comes in to it's doors spayed and neutered. Not simply because it makes the clinic money, because, in a way it loses us money, I'll get to that in a bit. Also, not simply because it helps to solve pet over-population. We like to see spayed and neutered bunnies even when they live in a cage without any other bunnies.
The main reason to get your animal spayed or neutered is because he or she will live much longer. There are an immense amount of health problems in unspayed or unneutered animals beginning with really disgusting and and painful anal problems in males to cancers and more.
So, in a way, if we didn't spay and neuter the animals that came in, we would eventually make more money on each animal that came in with a disease or condition later on in life, that would eventually shorten it's life.
Don't listen to anyone who says "spaying and neutering is unnatural" Anyone who owns a pet is doing something that was once considered "unnatural" This is not a natural world, we do everything we can to keep ourselves and our children happy and healthy, why not do everything you can in order to keep your pets healthy and happy.
Not to mention the fact that right now there are so many unwanted animals. Every summer, you area clinics will be flooded with unwanted dogs and cats because of people who do not spay and neuter their animals. The clinic in my area is practically giving away animals because they can't handle the flood of animals.
So, spaying and neutering is about as natural as giving your children vaccines or even vitamins. Both help keep your children disease free. Spaying and neutering keeps your pets disease free.
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Hi, It's me LULABELLE...I hate to bother you but I have a particular problem. You remember the question that was placed by the girl who was diagnosed as a Sociaopath? Well she reposted it. I didn't respond to it at all because I just didn't want to get involved and I had said everything that I need to say at that time and went on about my business. Well, she re-rated me which of course brought down my ratings. I had a perfict 5. I filed an abuse report, of course and it reads as follows:
http://www.advicenators.com/qview.php?q=429404
I first answered this question on May 25th or 26th and was rated a 1 at that time. I was upset and wrote y'all about it and even prepared y'all for my next response which was improper I agree but you can observe it non the less at the top of my first post in capital letters. This was all done w/in a few days in May. I absolutely realized I would not get my rating changed at that time because of my lashing out and took my lumps as a consequence of my anger. I realize it was uncalled for at the time but just had to do it. I had a couple of correspondences w/selectopaque about the whole situation which is posted on my column and I've included the whole post below just under her address. She also responded to a question that I had posted on Advicenators w/regards to this situation. This sociopathic question had been removed by a L2 moderator the first time and I saw that she reposted the question in June just about 30 days after the first one but I refrained from getting back involved w/her (it was when her rating of me didn’t count anymore). I felt I had said everything I needed to the first time and did not re-edit it or respond again in anyway shape or form. I had a feeling that her reposting this question was a way to try to get back at those of us who had responded in a way she didn't like the first time, but it appears no one took the bate, and she had new respondents that she did not rate so I feel that she is doing this simply to bring our ratings back down and this is highly unfair to allow this to happen. If I had responded again I would understand that I should take it, but I did absolutely nothing. I left her alone and feel she is a highly unhappy individual who can't stand to see it when others are doing well. If you look at my column you will see that I always (w/the exception of this one time) do my best to give the answer that will help people and if you look at my first answer to her that is exactly what I did then too. I do not think that she should be able to rate me for a second time just to lower my ratings, which is what she is doing. She had plenty of time back in May to give me a higher rating if that was truly what she wanted to do. This is an obvious ploy to harass me and I think it should be changed for that reason. I will be greatly disappointed in Advicenators if it is not changed since the purpose behind this rating was to harass me. Thank you for your time. Namaste!
LULABELLE
http://www.advicenators.com/column.php?u=selectopaque
http://www.advicenators.com/qview.php?q=429532
Now I know you are wondering why I contacted you w/all of this since I filed a report. Well, after I filed the report I went back to look at my feedback ratings and saw that the rating was changed by a level 2 moderator. If that's the case than she is a level 2 moderator and is doing what she can to horass me. I was wondering, since you have been a level 2 moderator before, if there is another way that I can file a report or someone else that I can contact to make sure that she can not get away w/this? I'd appreciate any help you can give me concerning this matter.
Thanks and Namaste,
LULABELLE
From what I can see, the person asking that question was not a level two moderator. You said she re-rated you with a one right?
When you sent in the abuse report, one of the moderators changed your rating to a three. "changed by a level 2 moderator" doesn't always come up when a level 2 moderator changes a rating, it's just something that some of them always put when they change a rating in order for the person to realize that it was a level 2 moderator and not the person asking the question. make sense?
Plus, I know that there is no way for that person to be a level 2 moderator because of how they handled the situation. When your a level 2 mod, if you take out your frustration with the people who answer your question meanly, or if you re-ask the same question just to get more people to answer it, then you won't stay a level 2 mod. They are all hand picked by the site owner and he does a good job at keeping the morons and assholes out of the high ranking mod positions.
So, you have nothing to worry about. It was just a level two mod that changed your rating for you, not the girl asking the question.
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hi, i recently (yesterday) bought a cocatiel from a pet shop. i dont know how old it is, but was wandering if you could give me some tips on hand taming him. thanks in advance
I wouldn't suggest putting a leather glove on. This will only scare the bird. What you want to do is get the bird used to your hand. Do this by keeping your distance at first. If you put your hand in the cage, and the bird freaks out and just panics and tries to get away, then you should probably take your hand out of the cage and keep your distance.
Go slowly, first, by putting your hand on the outside of the cage and judging how the bird reacts to it. If the bird seems friendly and courious, then put your hand inside the cage. Never come from above towards the bird, always come from the side or below, and only where the bird can see you.
Don't expect to be able to hold the bird the first day. Even if you think the bird is nice enough, you might want to hold off until it's completely comfortable with your hand in it's cage. If you try to rush it into being used to you, then it might never go to you.
So, as the first person said, start getting your hand closer to the bird day by day until you can get it to go to your finger.
Most birds that come from pet shops are very wild and may never be as friendly as you would like. Kind of like the puppies and kittens from pet shops, they're all mostly over-bred and abused.
But, hopefully you got a curious bird who will be quite friendly, just take your time.
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my dog has the worst breath in the world.it is way to much $ to take her to the vet to get her teeth cleaned so i need something to get the smell gone.
thanxxx
I work at a vet clinic that does 3 to 4 teeth cleanings for animals every day.
Now, there are many many teeth cleaning products out there that can help your pets teeth immensly. Everything from bones to doggy treats to special dog foods will help scrape the gunk off of dogs teeth. I suggest you go to any big name pet store like petco or petsmart and searching for some teeth cleaning products.
I would definately suggest buying a dog tooth brush and dog tooth paste. This will help out most of all, and it's usually really easy to do since dogs like the taste of the tooth paste.
Now, let me tell you why none of these products will work until you get your dogs teeth cleaned at the vet clinic.
These products work on keeping your dogs teeth clean, but they aren't strong enough to do anything to the tarter and calcium buildup that's on your pets teeth now. And, that's what's making the bad smells. Imagine not brushing your teeth or going to the vet clinic for a few years, and then suddenly try to brush your teeth without having all of the years of tarter scraped off. Your teeth wouldn't get any cleaner with simple brushing. It will make it so they don't get worse, but it won't make the bad smell go away.
I know it costs a lot to get your pets teeth cleaned. The actual cleaning doesn't usually cost much, but it's the anesthesia that costs a lot. Unfortunately the vet or vet techs can't just tell an animal to open wide and stay still like a human dentist can. So, we have to put the animal under anesthesia to get them to stay still.
It will help her keep her teeth longer if you get them cleaned. We have a lot of older dogs and cats with no teeth because their owners didn't get cleanings when they were younger. There are also a lot of older dogs and cats who can't eat without pain because of their teeth.
If it comes to that, then you'll end up spending much much more money on her vet visit in the long run.
We just got a cat at the vet clinic yesterday that didn't have surgery while she was young, and she ended up needing all of her teeth pulled because of various problems. This ended up costing her over $800.
Our regular dentals are around $130 a year. Compared to $800, I would much rather take a regular cleaning.
So, get all the products you can think of, but in order to fix the problem, your still going to need to get your pets teeth cleaned.
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Well I have a hamster named mini &+ a mouse named friedrich. Well I went campinq for a weekend &+ when I came back my hamster qot REALLY fat. I dont normally play with him that much to where two days would make him that fat so what do you thinks wronq ? what should i do because I am in four-h &+ i show him at fair. Like what could I do to make him lose weiqht?
It's really not normal for a hamster to noticably lose weight that fast. It's a possibility that he might be bloated, or other underlying health problems. I would take him to the vet to check him out before you try to put him on a diet.
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what do i do my dogs are attatched to human table food they won't touch dog food so i have to make them breakfast lunch and dinner. tell me how i can get them to eat dog food. please........ thank you
First I wanted to say Never feed your dog a vegan diet. There are nutrients in meat and meat products that animals need in order to live and grow properly.
Secondly, stop feeding your animals food from the table. Just stop. :)
But, to ease them back into a regular diet of dog food, put bits of people food into their dog food. Try putting half dog food, half people food. Then, next week, put one quarter people food, three quarters dog food. Slowly take away the people food and add more dog food, so that you trick them into eating just dog food.
People food is way too loaded with calories and fat for a dog. Dog obesity is a huge problem, it can lead to many dangerous and expensive health problems.
After you get your dog back to eating just dog food, make sure you never feed them table scraps again. And, make sure you tell everyone else that in your house. Like everyone else said, a dog will not starve itself unless there is an underlying health issue, but, if you slowly add back the dog food in his diet, it will make it easier on you and him.
You should also get your dog into normal eating patterns. Say, if you feed your dog at 9, and he hasn't finished his food by 10, pick up his bowl and then, when you feed him again at lunch or dinner, only feed him his normal portion. Don't double up because he missed a meal.
This also ensures that he'll be less picky about what he eats. It will make him realize that if he doesn't eat what's in front of him, he's not going to get anything better.
Just stop feeding him table scraps and he'll be much happier and healthier and will live a longer life.
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I have two former friends who (in my opinion) seriously abuse their cat. "Tammy" will grab the cat by the back legs and spin it around, set it on the floor and flip it in circles, chase it around the house, pull it by its tail when it tries to get away, etc. She's 21, so she's not a kid at all. With her boyfriend, they will put the cat in a pillowcase a breathe lungfulls of marijuana smoke in on it. When they have parties, they will "pass the cat." Everyone in at the party will take the joint and the bagged cat, and on every exhale breathe their smoke into the cat's bag. This will go on for an hour or two before they free the cat. This is just what they do in front of other people.
I can only see where I have there options here, each with problems.
1) Call the police.
2) Break into their house and steal the cat.
3) Do nothing.
I don't want to call the police, because I smoke weed and so do a lot of my friends. Used to, if you got caught in my town you just went to jail. Now you reduce your sentence with every fellow pot head you turn in, all the way up to having no arrest record if you turn in enough people.
I don't want to break in just because...well...it's wrong, I guess. And I really want to do something to help the cat. I've already tried talking to them about it, and it doesn't help.
I would really appreciate any other suggestions, or help picking which option is right. Thanks!
I think you should just take the cat without them knowing if you have the option to do that. And bring the cat to the animal shelter. The cat is probable plenty used to people if it's used to that environment, so he should be friendly enough to get a home right away.
I see nothing wrong with taking the cat from them, what's the worst they could do? Call the cops on you? I don't see that happening.
The police won't do anything, and you I doubt the ASPCA would even be able to do anything. They wouldn't exactly be able to test the cat's hair for THC, that costs money that the police wouldn't bother spending that money on a cat, and the ASPCA wouldn't be able to spend it on one cat who "appears" healthy to strangers.
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i have a job and i usually work mornnings. And that means i have to wake up around 530am. I have a really loud alarm clock but im a hard sleeper and i dont hear it.
It usually has been going off for around 15 - 30 mintues before i actually hear it.
Dont tell me i need to go to bed earlier. i go to bed around 10 pm. And i cant put the alarm right next to my bed because ill end up turning it off.
Anything that will help me get up with the alarm?
I had that problem all through high school and I first few years of college. I finally got it under control now that I work early every morning.
Here's what you can do.
Set your alarm 15-30 minutes earler. I had to set my alarm an hour early sometimes just to assure that I would wake up. Don't put the alarm next to your bed, put it so you have to get up and walk across the room to turn it off. This might make it so it's easier for you to get up.
I would try not to use the snooze button. Try to get up as soon as your turn your alarm off the first time. It will make you less tired in the morning. If you try to get that extra ten or fifteen minutes of sleep, then you'll never want to get up, and you'll be more likely to not be woken up by the alarm the second or third time around
Try getting a new kind of alarm clock. You might be desensitized to the one you've been using. Perhaps if you get a more annoying one, instead of simply a louder one, then it might make you wake up easier.
It also might help if you wake up earlier on your days off. Getting in the habit of waking up early, even if it's not 5:30, but perhaps 8 or 9, will help you wake up at 5:30 on the days that you have to. If you wake up at 5:30 five days a week, but then sleep till noon on the weekends, then you'll be in the habit of sleeping till noon on monday through thursday, and then the cycle will start all over again.
But, if you get used to waking up early-ish every day, then it might get easier with time.
the downfall of this is that it will be harder to sleep in on the days that you really want to sleep in, but, that shouldn't be too much of a problem.
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if you took a pregnancy test and it came out positve can you still have your period every month or does it mean you lost the baby
there is absolutely NO way to get a false positive. A false negative is possible, but there is no way that the stick could get a false positive. The pregnancy test tests for a certain hormone. It's possible that there isn't enough of that hormone at the time, but if the tests picks up that hormone in your body, then it means you are pregnant, or were. If your bleeding you should see your doctor.
You should see your doctor even if you aren't bleeding and you have gotten a positive pregnancy test.
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hi.
i have had my dog for many years and he's been slowing down and has had a hard time standing up.
my question is..... does anyone know any types of food should i try giving him to get his bines stronger and speed him up a little?
thanks alot!!!!!!!
I would call a veteriarian in your area, and they can give you the best answer. It doesn't cost anything to call, and they should be able to give you advice depending on the age and breed of your dog. There are also many many prescription diets that you can get from your veterinarian, some which might help out with arthritis for older dogs.
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I am asking for people's opinions!
What do you think about the Monks of New Skete and their training program?
Great dog trainers or dog mistreaters?
Thanks!
You already know my opinion on this subject. (I asked the question earlier about the Monks of New Skete)
I do not necessarily think that they are dog mistreaters, but I definatly don't think they're Great dog trainers.
They probably think that their methods are very helpful. But, I honestly believe that they are harmful in most situations.
You mentioned that they believe in these methods because that's what the mother dog or wild dogs would do to a misbehaving younger dog. But, that really isn't true. For the longest time, the monks of new skete have been talking about a method of rolling your dog over and staring it in the eye, or even growling at it. They're reasoning was because that is what the mother dog would do in the wild.
The truth is that there is no.. absolutely NO research showing that this is what wild dogs do. Like I said, this method will lead to a fearful dog.
In the dog world, staring, growling, hunching over another dog, etc are all considered aggressive behavior. If one dog does that to another dog, it's kind of like saying, "I don't like you, stay away or I will bite"
To have an owner do this to a dog will only tell the dog that the owner is dangerous. Some dogs will shy away and do as the owner says. People will then think that the method has worked and the dog will now listen to you because your "dominant" But it's only that the dog is afraid of you. Other dogs will not shy away, there are dogs who see their owner as dangerous and then think that they have to bite first before their owner bites them.
You asked what I would have said to the person who asked the question about their aggressive golden retriever, If you go back to the question, you will see that I already gave my answer. I would have added more about the aggression part, but felt that nallie sufficently answered that, and there wouldn't have been a whole lot more for me to add on that part.
Now, you mentioned "This form of discipline resembles how a mother dog disciplines her pups and is not inhumane!" I'm just saying that that isn't true. You will never see a mother dog rolling a puppy over and staring at it or growling (which is what the "NO!" is supposed to make up for)
You gave good points otherwise, such as never saying the dogs name when you discipline. I just think you need to re-think who you go to for training books. The Monks of New Skete might have a few good points, but I really feel that they have a few quite harmful training methods, and that makes it well worth it to stay away from their books.
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my dog who lives with my nana on a farm has not been himself for like 2 weeks now it all started when my nana was walking to the bathroom and rocky didnt follow her {this is unnussaul}instead he let out like a really high pitched yelp and ran to the door and now all he does is sit in the same place for hours and doesnt get excited when people come to the house he gets afraid to go outside unless you take him for a walk outside of the fenced yard he never follows my nana around any more we think i may be able to help because he used to live with me so i am going up there today for 2weeks what do you think?
You should check out any health problems first of all. He may just be in pain when he moves. This is what it sounds like most of all since he used to follow your nana around, and now he doesn't. He is most likely afraid to get up and move around because it hurts him when he does that. Him letting out a high pitched yelp also suggests that he was in pain.
If he will only go outside the fenced yard, it may be because he got hurt in the back yard. Is there anything you can think of that he could have gotten hurt on inside the fenced yard? I would check out anything that might be hurting him. If possible you should take him to the vet.
This is the only thing I can think of from what you've told me.
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This might be kind of long...
Okay so I'm a fifteen year old girl and I work at a family owned art supply store in my hometown. The store also makes school supply kits during the summer for the area schools to use in the fall. So this summer I'm helping make these kits. It's easy, fast paced and it basically just requires a good memory and quick math skills. I really like it except for one thing...this girl I work with is such a bitch. If I mess like one little thing up she like announces it to the whole world to embarass me and acts like it's the end of the world and it's going to take forever to fix. Even if I apologize and fix it myself!! WHICH I ALWAYS DO!!! Then she'll like get these other two people that work with us involved in it by telling them that I'm really stupid and like make fun of me with them like practically right in front of me! And she's always poking fun at me for being young (because I'm 15 and everyone else who works there is 17+...and I'm going to college next fall so she calls me a weirdo) and sometimes when I say things like joking around with someone else she'll butt into the conversation and say something like "that's an immature answer" or "what a dumb thing to say" or "how juvenille". Then this new girl accidentally got out too much of something and she like flipped out but she's new so she should totally give her a break about it!!! I can't like talk with her privately about it because she'd just shut me down like she always does. What can I do to like stick up for myself and make her realize she's being a bitch to me and the new girl? HELP!!!!!!!
From what you've described she's being incredibly immature and extremely unprofessional. If she's older than you, and your going to college (probably before her) then she probably feels inferrior than you, and not as smart. So, putting you down is her way of making herself feel better than you.
Age has nothing to do with maturity in this situation.
If you can't talk to her privately, then you need to go to her supervisor. There should be a way to go to the supervisor without her knowing that it was you who told. At a work place, this should not be going on. It's bad enought that that kind of shit goes on in high school, a work place is not the place to have someone make you feel stupid.
Or, if you don't want to try that, then do the same thing to her. Make her feel like a moron when she doesn't something wrong, go up to her and catch her on all the stupid little things she says, ask her if she's just upset because she didn't get into the college she wanted, or if she just can't handle someone younger being smarter than her.
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My yellow lab is a year old and seems to be agressive to new people who come to the house. She looks out the window at people or other dogs who walk by and growls and barks with hair raised on her back.
She has also tore up two expensive throw rugs within a week. We are not home at the time. We have to keep putting her back in her kennel when we leave.
I had a chocolate lab before and she was nothing like our yellow lab.
I have twin daughters, six, I'm afraid she might bite someone one day. She loves the girls but too agressive.
I have thought about giving her away.
Nallie gave excellent advice. I have a few ideas that might also help with her destroying things when your gone. She appears to have separation anxiety, this is not a sign of aggression. To help fix her of this, you need to show her that being alone is ok, and that you will always come back. If you leave her in a room for short periods of time, and then come back and play with her, she might start to get the picture.
You should put her in a room, close the door and leave for a period of time. I'm not sure what period of time you should start with. But it should be short enough so that she will not start to get stressed out. Try ten minutes. If she gets stressed, then make it shorter. When I had a puppy, I had to start out with 30 seconds because she would pee and get stressed otherwise, but since your dog is older, you may be able to leave her for longer.
Do this a few times a day, making it longer when you feel she is ready. I'm not sure how long it will take, since every dog is the same, but if you keep at it, and leave her alone, go do things elsewhere in the house, and then come back and play she should get the hint that she doesn't need to freak out when you leave.
You should also leave her with plenty of toys to play with so that she doesn't decide to play with any other expensive rugs.
If it was me, I might keep her from view of the windows to keep her from learning that barking and growling at someone makes them leave. If you have friends who could randomly show up, to let your dog know that strangers aren't bad that might be good. But, make sure she can't bite them.
You should also take her for more walks, to not only get some of her energy out, but to introduce her to some new things. The more new things you introduce her to, the better socialized she will be.
Also, teach your daughters to respect the dog. Teach them not to tease her, run up to her suddenly, or tug on her.
As nallie pointed out, growling and barking are not always the best way to tell if a dog is aggressive. The hair raised on her back might always be a sign of excitement, rather than aggression. My puppy has never shown any sign of aggression, I got lucky and got a social little butterfly, but her tackles are raised everytime she see's a new dog, out of excitement rather than aggression.
But, it could be fear or aggression. Introducing her to many new things should help. She's still fairly young and you may be able to turn her around completely, but if you don't feel comfortable trying because of your daughters that's understandable, and you should try to find her a home with someone who doesn't have kids.
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Hi, my daschund puppy (8 month) just got in heat about a week ago. I have a male daschund who is not neutered and i plan to breed them but im not sure if i need to wait until the second heat, or if its ok to let them now? Also, she is wearing a diaper right now to prevent pregnancy and so that the blood will not get everywhere. If it is not safe for them to have puppies this early, how long do i keep the diaper on her? And one more question, how many puppies will she likely have? Thank you, Lindsey
Dogs will NOT allow a male dog to breed with them durring proestrus (when they are bleeding) When they can get pregnant, durring estrus, after they have stopped bleeding, is when you need to worry about her mating with the male dog. When she has stopped bleeding, do not take the diaper off for another week or so or she will get pregnant. Many people think that they're safe once the dog stops bleeding and allow the dog to be near the male, but this is a misconception. When the dog stops bleeding is when she will get pregnant.
So, wait a few more heat cycles until you let her breed, and keep the diaper on for a week or so after she stops bleeding. Also, once she is old enough to be bred, you should only allow her one litter a year, or better yet, a litter every other year. This is better for the female.
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my budgie always has a very dirty vent, his poop always sticks to the feathers around there.how can it keep it clean?he wont let me bath him.should i clip the feathers around there shorter?or try to us a spray bottle to spray the area with water to clean it up?any other ways i could keep his vent clean?
You might want to take him to the vet to see if he has any health problems. When any animal has a problem keeping their back end clean, it usually means that the animal has diarrhea or can't control itself.
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hi, i was just wandering if the vet charges you for a prescription , or telling you how to do something, eg. budgie wing clipping, etc...? thanks :)
I work at a vet clinic, and here is what we would charge in this case...
Usually, vet's have their medicines on hand, this means that you would be getting the prescription from us. The doctor would tell the tech, or nurse, to fill out a prescription, we would give it to you, then you would go to the front desk to pay.
If you want advice, then you would pay for the examination. If you ask a vet to tell you how to clip your budgies wings, you would pay for the examination and the wing clip, which the vet would do in order to show you.
Or, if it's advice that you can get over the phone, then you wouldn't have to pay. I'm not sure if it would be possible for someone to properly tell you how to clip your birds wings over the phone, or if the vet would do that without having you come in, but you could try.
So, basically, if you bring your animal in, you pay for the examination (our clinic charges $35 for an exam) and you pay for any services that your vet does for your animal. If you don't bring the animal in, you only pay for what you bring home from the vet, like some kind of medicine.
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hi recently, i purchased johnsons anti mite POWDER. now i was just wandering if i could mix some of it with water, and then spray it on the budgie, seeing how its hard to put it on the budgie. thanks in advance. :)
I'm pretty sure the powder is supposed to be a bath for the budgies, like Moop mentioned.
You should read the directions, and do what they tell you to do. If they don't say anything about mixing it with water, then don't do that. If you don't follow the directions on the box, or bottle, then the powder won't work.
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