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Why isn't there a Vogue Africa yet?
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Since the "all black" version of Italian Vogue was one of Italian Vogue's best selling issues ever, it's clear there is a demand. And an African Vogue would sell in Africa, and in other continents with Africans, like hotcakes. There's a huge market to be untapped, there. Since Africa is diverse the magazine would always be diverse and interesting, too, something I can't normally say about any of the other Vogues, unfortunately
So why haven't they done this? I don't see any cons. It would make Vogue a lot of money. Doesn't money talk? It could also bring forth more acceptance of African beauty, and the beauty of Africa in general, which is great. There's many types of beauty in this world. It could also show other people that there's a lot more to Africa than what is stereotypically thought. It's not all poverty, sickness, and exotic animals. It could also bring to prominence great, emerging African designers, and etc.
It makes me excited just thinking about all of this. I can't understand why Conde Nast hasn't approved of it, yet. I say "yet" because it sounds ridiculous that it would never happen. It's already ridiculous that it hasn't happened. It's not like there aren't many African women who buy high fashion, either. This is an entire continent of people we are talking about. Trust me, there are many rich people, too, who I think would very much be influenced by an African Vogue, to buy fashions.
What would be reasons why they wouldn't approve it, then? Does Conde Nast receive a lot of money from American, European, and Asian fashion houses, who don't want to face competition from a rising African market? That's the only valid reason I can think of, for why Conde Nast wouldn't approve it.
It's just sad, cause as someone of recent African descent, it would be awesome to see such a prominent fashion magazine (basically, the fashion authority) featured on Africans, and portraying the different sides to Africa that exist. It would really be a positive thing. Unlike the other Vogues, it wouldn't even primarily be featured on one "race", because of how diverse looks in Africa are. From dark skinned people with coily hair in West Africa to lighter skinned people with loose curls in east Africa, to the white settlers in South Africa, to Arabs in North Africa, etc. It might be a reach but I just feel it would really unify the continent, and the world in many ways. To show everyone as one, despite looking different, as Vogue Africa. It's just nice to think of! I kind of understand why minorities aren't really in the other Vogues, since they're based in countries where people are mainly one way (like Vogue America is mainly white because America is mainly white), so yeah, not going to lie, a Vogue that features more black people would obviously be greeted warmly by me, as I'm black, and have already gone through many magazines with people that usually don't look like me (I usually ignore it, cause I just like the fashion, but you know, it can get annoying at times, in all honesty)
So, what's your opinion about this? Wasn't planning on writing long.. it's a bad habit. But I'm very curious about responses!
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I think the article gets it right at the end: Instead of focusing on convincing Vogue to launch in Africa or an African Diaspora edition, the community would be better served to create it's own brands. (And since this article was written in 2010 new magazines have popped up or gotten much bigger, Arise being the one that really jumps to mind...)
I also think the whole "But that one issue made so much money!" argument has been really overblown and misunderstood. Being able to make a great deal of money on a single, special issue is exactly what magazines professional would expect, and what the CEO and the board would demand. The expectations for that issue were very high to begin with. It's great that the issue hit its goals, but that doesn't necessarily translate into adequate resources, demand, community and industry support for a monthly mag.
I'm sure that Vogue did a great deal of market research after that issue, and money does talk, but I can think of a whole HOST of reasons that the board (it wasn't Nast's decision all alone. Nast might have had the final word, but it was a collective decision by many of their top people, and probably with some hired external consultants and experts as well.)
What would be reasons why they wouldn't want to launch it, then?
Well, when this article was written, they had just had a Vogue Men edition fail rather spectacularly. They simply might not have had the money, investors or financing available to launch and function in an area as large and diverse as Africa, even if they did think it was a good idea. Although Vogue is still strong, it has not been a great last few years for the print magazine industry.
They also have no distribution or printing resources on the continent. When they expanded through Europe in the 80 and early 90s, they were able to use a lot of their existing systems to support the rollouts in new markets. Those are costly and difficult relationships to build and are only getting more difficult in the digital age.
They could also be scared. They don't understand the market, they don't have the expertise they think they need, and they don't know how to get it. As business people, the risk is unattractive, and the rewards are uncertain.
They also do have competition. More every year. Arise, Helm, Haute, but also the American mags like Essence and Jet.
All these sorts of issues and concerns would be the kind of things Vogue would want anyone pitching a new edition of Vogue to address. Mario Epanya was a fashion photographer, but not necessarily an ideal businessperson to make the pitch to Vogue.
In the end, I don't think there is any conspiracy here. There IS a lot of innate racism in media and fashion media, but it's not grand conspiracy of designers or Vogue. European and American designers are used to functioning on an international stage would more likely welcome an African Vogue as opening new markets to THEM, rather than worrying about it bringing in competing African designers. I'd bet there are some who already have stores in Cape Town and would jump for joy if Vogue launched in Africa. If Vogue thought they could definitely make money with a monthly mag like this, they probably would. The more likely explanations for why they haven't is that a.) they can't afford too b.) they think they can't make enough money to justify it or c.) no one with right interest and expertise has come forward to make it a reality.
It's a tough line to walk, because although Vogue is Vogue, and has the cache and brand power that it does, it's tempting to want it to represent a group you belong to in a way you find inclusive and illustrative. However, the greatest success for a community often comes when they stop chasing the tends of the mainstream media, and start being entrepreneurial and representing themselves.
Anyways, check out Arise Magazine if you haven't. It's tough to come by in the US I think, but you might really like it.
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