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I have a 2007 Kia Sportage and I just got a new CD. I tried to put it in and it won't go in because it feels as if there are 2 bars (an inch on both sides) blocking it. I have a CD Radio installed (it came with the car). I tried doing stuff with the fuses and all of that and I don't want to buy a new or used system. Do you know how I can get the CD in or get those bars out?
Thanks (link)
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Hi there,
This is a known problem. It is likely that there is a CD stuck in the player unit already.
The nice people over at Kia Forums:
http://www.kia-forums.com/kia-cerato-shuma-spectra-forum/46483-stuck-cd-cd-player.html
... have addressed the known ways to handle this.
Hope your problem is an easy fix!
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I have my learner permit. I was driving my friend car. I hit the car in front of me. I am 18 year old. and my friend is 21 years old. who take the responsibility for the car's damage? thanks (link)
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Unless there is something you left out, then whoever was driving the car that caused the accident, in this case you, is typically responsible for paying the damages.
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Thank you for your alternator advice. It looks like mine was a battery problem even though it was showing 12 volts when charged.
Would you have any advice on checking for battery drain by shorts in the system? Ammeter in series from the battery when everything is turned off? What ammeter range would you start with?
Thanks. Paul Tatarewicz (link)
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Howdy Paul,
The first answer depends on if you have help or not. If you have help, you can place the ammeter in line with the positive terminal, and have someone under the hood watch the meter.
After that, you can access the fuse panel, and remove each fuse, and ask if there is a change. Take note of any fuse circuits that are drawing current, and see if they should be. Your radio draws for storing settings, and some cars computers are always on. Your alarm system is another one which is always on.
If you find something that shouldn't be drawing power, then you know where to start looking.
Most cars now have inside and outside fuse panels. You can check the ones under the hood by yourself this way, and then use the next method I am going to describe to check the interior fuses if you don't have help.
If you have no help, then pull each fuse, one at a time, and place the probes in line with the contacts where you took the fuse out. Any draw on that circuit will be shown this way.
Be careful not to jam the probes in the contacts. You want the fuse to make firm contact again when you are done, so spreading the contacts is a bad idea. Just use enough pressure to make good contact, and you should be fine.
As to which setting to use: The highest one your meter offers. If the draw is enough to prematurely drain your battery, it should show just fine.
Let me know how you make out with all this.
DN.
P.S. Just for future reference, I had an internally shorted (mineral buildup) battery show 12 volts, and discharge over a short time. Went just about nuts trying to figure it out back then. You said it was a battery problem, so I am assuming you changed the battery. If you haven't, then that would be something to check if you don't find anything odd in your electrical system.
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What's the simplest way to to test a car alternator (12 volt system)? Type of testing instrument needed and range calibration?
Gauge in van is stuck, doesn't move during charge or discharge. Battery seems ok when externally charged.
Alternator may have been damaged by antifreeze "flooding" due to insecure radiator cap. (link)
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Well, the easiest way to do this is to take the van to the nearest parts store or garage. Most parts places have a test rig that tests alternator output under load as well as battery condition. If you are nearby such a place, just fully charge the battery and drive there during the daylight (so you don't have to use the lights.) Please also remember not to use any electrical items you don't have to. Radio, A/C, blower motor, and anything else you don't absolutely need, should be left off while you are taking care of this.
As far as testing it at home, the fastest way would be to set your multimeter to DC and the appropriate range (if your meter isn't auto-ranging, that is.)
Before you start the vehicle, place the multi-meter leads on your battery terminals and see what the voltage is, without a charger connected.
Then start the vehicle, and go out and repeat the measurement you just did. At the very least, your voltage should have climbed substantially. Most vehicles these days seem to charge between 13.8-14.4 VDC.
If you aren't seeing that, then it is time to replace your alternator, or voltage regulator, if it isn't built into the alternator already.
Your local parts store will be able to tell you if the voltage regulator is internal or external to the alternator, if you don't already know.
While you are at it, I would get an aftermarket ammeter and voltmeter for your van, if you are fairly handy and feel it wouldn't be much of a challenge to install. This way you can always see your charge state and alternator output voltage at a glance.
Hope the repairs go easy for you.
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I want to buy new or used RVs, can anyone suggest me dealer or any other help (link)
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Hi there,
Please consider RVTrader.com:
http://www.rvtrader.com/
... and NationalMultiList.com:
http://www.nationalmultilist.com/
... as the two big sites for finding used RVs.
Here is a tip from someone who has been there: Take the RV to an independent mechanic BEFORE you buy it! Everything costs an arm and a leg on an RV, so make sure you aren't buying someone else's problem.
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I need know if i can fit a oil pan from 95 neon on my 2000 neon (link)
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Hi there,
I looked it up and found different part numbers for the years you asked about, so it doesn't look like the part will swap between a 1995 and 2000 Dodge Neon.
Sorry about that.
On the high side, though, it is a fairly inexpensive oil pan, as these things go.
Good luck with the repairs.
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1) How do you change the rear wheel bearings on a Mercedes W124 E280 1994? Can you provide step by step instructions?
2) Is it really difficult without special tools?
3) How long might it take per wheel? (link)
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Hi there,
If this was a front wheel drive vehicle, it might be worth your time to try and do this by yourself, but even then you would be working with the brakes as well, which I wouldn't suggest to a beginning mechanic. As this is a rear wheel drive or all wheel drive model of Mercedes car, depending on sub-model designation, I wouldn't even think about doing it yourself.
There are brake tools you are going to need, as well as the possibility of needing to rebuild the rear-end. Now, that isn't likely, but if the bearing has been bad enough, long enough, it may have damaged the internals of the rear drive line.
You aren't likely to know enough to tell if this is the case, judging by the things you asked here.
Please take it in and get the work done by someone with a little experience working on RWD Mercedes cars.
I mean no disrespect, and I admire your passion to DIY but this wouldn't be the project I would start with, unless this is something that isn't a daily driver. That way if you screw things up, it can sit in the garage for weeks or months until you have the money to fix what you break. ;-) Even then, where safety systems like ABS are involved, I would have the work inspected by a certified mechanic before I took it out on the road.
Good luck!
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How do I start a coulem
(link)
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Hi there,
I looked, and couldn't find any reference to the word "coulem."
Could you please take a little more time to explain what it is that you are after, so we can help you better?
Thank you,
DN.
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I have a 2004 Chevy Ventura mini van. It dies a lot usually when driving but sometimes when ideling. I had a local mechanic check it once when it wouldn't start and he found it was getting no spark. He replaced the electronic ignition module and the crankshaft sensor but this did not fix the problem. He checked an air flow sensor and determined that was not the problem. It usually starts after 5 to 40 attempt to restart, except once it didn't start for two hours. The Chevy Dealership can find nothing wrong with it. It has a new battery. It has about 100,000 miles. Today it died five times in twenty minutes. Please help me. Thank you. (link)
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Hi there,
My friend, I am sorry to tell you that you have a vehicle that is legendary for problems like what you are describing. In fact, it is so famous for this this that I can't believe the dealer didn't help you. The only thing I can think is that the mechanic was new there. :-(
The reason that these things are such a beast to get taken care of is that they are prone to several problems; all of which have very similar symptoms.
First things first. If there is another dealership within driving range, I would take it to them, and ask to speak to the senior mechanic. Ask him if he has experience with the legendary runs/dies starts/dies problem these have. If he says no, then I guess I would start calling independent mechanics and asking the same question until you strike gold.
One of the single most hateful things that can be wrong is the intermittent failure of the PASSlock security system that GM uses. You know that chip in the key routine? Well, when it fails it causes problems that are hard to diagnose since it rarely shows a diagnostic code. So the mechanic hooks up to the computer, and it is showing that nothing is wrong... even though you and I both know there is an issue no matter WHAT the computer says.
The problem is so severe that a genius by the name of Luke Lambruschini built a module that bypasses the entire system. The only problem is that the 2004 Venture uses a different system which he doesn't have a kit for. If it turns out to be that this is indeed part of your problem, then you might write to him and ask him if it would be possible for him to design one for you and all the other people stuck with this problem.
Here is a link to his site:
http://newrockies.com/
My understanding is that the security failure will not cause it to die while you are driving, but could cause the repeated inability to start it.
So, what could be causing the death while driving situation? Here are the things that spring to mind:
1) Fuel pressure regulator. (Have the rest of the fuel system checked while you are at it.)
2) I know you had someone check the mass airflow sensor, but I had one on a Pontiac that was intermittent. Sometimes it would work fine and not show as a failed part... and other times it would be just like you describe.
3) TPM/TPS (throttle position sensor)
4) IAC valve (Idle air control)
5) The ECM and BCM (body control module) talk to each other. If the signal is interrupted all kinds of NOT fun things can happen.
6) Camshaft position sensor (You mentioned the crank sensor had been changed, so this is another logical step since they both feed the same computer the data it needs to decide when to allow ignition to work.)
I am sure there are other items I am unaware of, but you have a lot of company in this situation so I would like to point the way to some of your new friends:
There is a Yahoo group for owners(victims?) of Chevy Venture or Lumina and Pontiac Montana or Transport mini vans:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/chevyventureluminapontiacmontanatransport/
... posting there will let you hear other people's experiences with this as well.
If you would like to have a look at what else is on the internet already about this frightfully common problem:
You will quickly see you aren't alone. Pages and pages of people having issues similar to your own.
Good luck!
P.S. If you wouldn't mind, would you please tell me, in feedback, which part(s) were actually causing your particular problem? Just so I know for the future when someone asks again. Thank you.
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what is INR 29300.00 in dollars
(link)
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Here is a link to the answer for now, and all other times you will have questions like this:
http://www.xe.com/
... Very reliable currency converter, in my experience.
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The IP Brake light comes on when I get above 35 MPH on my 92 GMC truck. Have all new brakes, & full pedal, stops good. (link)
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Hi there,
Just for reference, and so they don't laugh when you take it in, that is the ((!P))Brake light. :-)
This could be any number of things, but the last one I saw was a wheel sensor (for the anti-lock brakes) malfunctioning.
If you need to replace that wheel hub assembly, have a look at eBay... I found one for my car which was American made and cost one THIRD what my parts store wanted.
The company I bought from was Dearborn Rack and Axle, if I recall correctly.
Good luck!
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So I got really sick this year during the month before the last month of school and I wound up missing 16 days of school. My doctor actually called the school and alerted them of what had happened. Nobody said anything when I went back to school after missing 16 days so I figured I was fine. Then during the summer I got my last report card in the mail and it said I had 16 unexcused absences.
I called the school and the only lady that was still there told me that I was labeled a "truant" and that I wouldn't be able to get my license!
I told her what happened but she said she didn't have the rights to change it because she was only a librarian and not an attendance worker and that seeing as it was so far in the future now that I probably wouldn't be able to get it changed anyways and that the only way it would be removed is if I attended school next year for 30 days in a row without missing any days.
The problem is I really wanted to be able to take my written test in the next few weeks and to be able to get my permit at least but now I'm wondering if the person at the DMV is going to check my attendance and then see that they labeled me a Truant and not allow me to get it.
So will they check my attendance when I go to take my written test?
(link)
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This would vary by state, I am sure.
If you have a medical excuse, then there should be no problem. Even if they do check your attendance, just bring a note from your doctor excusing your absence, and all should go well for you.
You can also call the DMV and ask the testing division this question. They will tell you right away just what you can expect, so that you don't have to worry about it when you go in there.
One thing to consider: If you didn't finish your driver's ed, you mat not have all the skills you need. If you feel like this may be the case, then please consider driving school to pick up what you may have missed.
The most important thing here is your permanent school transcript. Make sure you have written documentation from your doctor, which you can present to the office when you return to school.
Your transcript can ALWAYS be amended if you talk to the right person.
Good luck.
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I turn on ac in car but get no air movement from vents (blown fuse ),bad fan motor ? thanx for any help Sonny (link)
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Hi there,
Both of these are possible, and both are easy to check. First, set the controls to heat. If you turn the fan on and it works, then it is not the blower motor. Replace the fuse for the AC, and check the AC relay (in the box under the hood) and see what happens.
Other things that you should look into if that doesn't solve your issue:
Bad AC switch in the dash.
Intermittent wiring somewhere between the AC switch and the AC control electronics, if any.
In a 2003 there may be a dedicated climate control computer. If so, the problems can get more complicated to diagnose. Just remember: Simple things first, and when things start to get scary... get some help with it.
Good luck, and I hope it is a cheap fix.
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shut up you do not know how it feels to have a cycel
bicth (link)
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LOL! What? No really, what?
I know you didn't mean to send this to me, but the user you wrote doesn't allow annonymous users to contact them... golly, I wonder why?
Thanks for the laugh.
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my car keeps dying. Sometimes it dyes when I am at a stop light or sign. I don't know what the problem is. Can you help me? (link)
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Hi there,
There really are too many possible causes to diagnose remotely. Even if we were able to tell you what it was, do you feel you are able to change the parts yourself?
If you are mechanically inclined, please respond with more detail, and I will do my best to help.
If you aren't a mechanic at all, then the best bet is to take it into your local garage, or contact a friend you may have who happens to be handy with cars... a shade-tree mechanic, if you will.
Either way, I wish you only the best with this problem.
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my mazda wont get a spark from the coil is has no ditributor how come? (link)
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There are internal timing sensors that trigger the spark. One of these sensors may be bad, the ignition computer may be defective, or your coilpack assembly could have a problem. It is also possible that your timing belt broke.
You should have this hooked up to computer diagnostics. The error code will help the mechanic get the troubleshooting done quickly and with minimal cost.
Good luck. I hope it is a simple fix.
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I have a 1987 Chevy G20 with a 4 barrel 400. It just started dying when i start to come to a stop or slow down to turn. It will not usually restart for about 30 to 40 minutes after it dies, just keeps cranking! I have changed the fuel filter. I NEED HELP PLEASE!!! I have 4 children that ride in this van and dont want something to happen because I break down in an intersection or major road! PLEASE HELP!! (link)
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Hi there,
The three most obvious causes for the situation you describe are either a problem with the float valve in the carb, vapor lock trouble or an intermittent fuel pump.
I would lean heavily toward the float from your description. I have had that experience, where it floods whenever you come to a stop.
Fortunately carb rebuilds aren't that bad. If you are pretty handy, you can do it yourself, but if the concept or messing with throttle linkage and vacuum lines scares you, best to leave it to a pro.
Some places will sell you one that has been rebuilt, and take your old one in to rebuild for the next person. Shops like these can have you in and out very shortly.
Failing that, I would look toward the fuel pump. There are some important details missing for any further help we might be able to give. As an example: Does it only do this after so many miles, or does it only do it when it is fully warmed up? Is it worse going up or down a steep grade?
Anywho, whatever the case, you may need to have it checked out by a pro.
One more thing, as I recalled an oddity of Holley carburetors: There is a tiny extra fuel filter inside the nut that couples the fuel line to the carb. I doubt that is what it is from your description, but just as a note for the future, there is, or there should be, one right there also.
Good luck and I hope whatever is wrong turns out to be the cheapest of the options. :-)
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I have a subaru impreza 08 with a 6-cd player thing and when i turn my car on it makes really weird noises. It wont play any cds, or let me eject them. How do I fix it? (link)
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This is something that you are going to have to take to the dealer. When the gear drive dies in these, it almost always requires the unit to be disassembled.
Having taken a few similar items apart, it is usually a one way trip. Sometimes the parts you need to repair the CD changer are more expensive than the changer itself. Stupid, I know, but all too common.
If you have a warranty on the car, this would be a warranty item. If you don't, then any competent stereo installation shop should be able to help you.
Sorry I don't have better news.
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how to enable/disable locks
(link)
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Hi there,
Please see this eHow article entitled:
"How to Disable Automatic Locks on a Honda Accord"
http://www.ehow.com/how_7803819_disable-automatic-locks-honda-accord.html
... it is easy to disable the automatic door locking on Honda cars.
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I have a 1994 mazda b2300 pickup and my check engin light came on and it has a misfier .so I had it put on the obd1 computer to have it checked out .the mechanic told me it was a bad coilpack so I replaced it and the problem didn't corect itself so I went back to him and he checked the coilpack again and t was only fiering on 2 cilenders .being it is a 4 cilender and has 8 plugs and 8 wires on it .iv changed the coilpack 3 times and still get misfire either on one cilender or 2 .I did a tune up on it last year so I don't believe its the plugs or wires .I think its the ignition control modual gone bad .does anyone know what the function of this modual does . (link)
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The ignition control module is the item which controls when the coil-pack fires. It interfaces with the timing sensors on the engine.
I would change the module, but I would also be prepared to check whatever you have for a timing sensor. Probably a cam position sensor on that engine.
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